Zanzibar

Another holiday in Oman and we decided to go to...Zanzibar!
Zanzibar became part of the Sultanate of Oman in 1698 to form the Sultanate of Oman and Zanzibar. Around 1840, Sultan Said ibn Sultan moved his capital from Muscat to Stone Town. After his death in 1856, his two sons divided the two countries, Majid became Sultan of Zanzibar, and Thuwaini Sultan of Oman. Of course, we see a lot of East African influence in the Omani culture, now it's time to see the Arabic influence on Zanzibar.

Zanzibar once was a Sultanate with a true Sultan.

Sultan Said ibn Sultan

The first days, we walked the narrow streets of Stone Town.



The new capital, Zanzibar City borders directly on Stone Town, and shows the evidence of communist times.

After two days of Stone Town, we crossed the Island to Jambiani on the East Coast, where one of the main sources of income is the harvest of seaweed for Sushi.

Women harvesting Seaweed and a beautiful Dhow

We walked the beach, and Matilda soon found kids to play with.

You cannot visit Spice Island without seeing a spice farm

Vanilla!

Next we visited Jozani forest, where we saw monkeys...

Red Colobus monkey

....and Mangroves!

Matilda and Aap performed a traditional dance.

One last picture of Matilda with Daddy....

...and with Mommy....

...with her growing belly!







The Royal Opera House in Muscat

Finally, after years of construction and anticipation, the new Royal Opera House in Muscat has opened its doors. This impressive project was already well underway when we arrived here in 2009. One year later, towards the end of 2010, everyone expected it to open soon: it was His Majesty Sultan Qaboos’ 40^th anniversary of being ruler of the country, which asked for a lot of ceremony and celebration –the inauguration of such a cultural icon would have suited perfectly. But no, construction took longer than expected and it was only recently, in October, that this ‘magnificent step in the cultural development of the country’ – as the media like to describe it, was taken.

Those of you who have visited us in Oman will remember the construction of this project, as it is situated close to our home and one cannot miss it while passing it along the highway. Curious how the final result looks like? Take a look here (pictures are kindly copied from the ROHM website www.rohmuscat.org.om):

The inaugural season has not exactly been a ‘soft opening’ for the opera house. We were amazed by what the provincial town of Muscat has been able to offer us: Placido Domingo, Andrea Bocelli, London Philharmonic Orchestra, operas like Carmen and ballets like Swan Lake – and this is only the calendar for the first three months! Muscat has placed itself on the cultural map of the Middle East – it is the only Opera House in this part of the world except for Cairo, but I doubt if Placido and Andrea have performed there as well.

You’ll understand we are very happy with this new addition to culture and nightlife, turning sleepy Muscat into a somewhat more cosmopolitan place, and we have acquired tickets for a number of shows. Last month we had the pleasure to see the ballet ‘Don Quixote’ performed by the American Ballet Theatre. It was a delightful evening.

Albania!?!

Albania is number 1 in the Lonly Planet ‘s list of top 10 countries for 2011, and more important our friends Erik and Marija moved to Tirana. Reasons enough to pay a visit!

Tirana is a lively city. Maybe not the most beautiful architecture, but this is largely compensated by loads of bars, restaurants and parks.

Not so nice architecture; the former Enver Hoxha museum designed by his daughter Pranvera. 

Loads of nice places to eat, drink, or launder your criminal money...

Lots of green in Tirana.

Splendid interior of an old mosque in Tirana.

We visited a Venetian Mask factory in Shkoder, a remarkable display of entrepreneurship. The owner worked as so many Albanians in Italy, and started this factory back home. Now he has several shops in Venice, and Las Vegas, and made the masks for the movie 'Eyes wide shut'!

Beautiful masks!

Inspired by the novels by Ismail Kadare, and ‘Herberg met het Hoefijzer’ ('Inn with the Horseshoe' , a classic for the dutchies), we decided to make a trip to the valley of Teth in the North of the country. This valley is closed half of the year because the road is inaccessible due to snow, a spectacular ride!

When the going gets tough.....

This region is also known for it’s traditional law or ‘Kuna’, which is the subject of Ismail Kadare’s novel ‘Broken April’:
....After shooting the murderer of his brother, young Gjorg Berisha has a period of 30 days to pay his blood money. When this truce finishes he has two options, either go back to his village and be sure to get killed by one of the brothers of his victim, or allow himself to be locked up in a windowless tower or ‘Kulla’ for the rest of his life....
Truly, life in North Albania in the 1920’s could not have been that dark!
Or can it?

The windowless 'Kulla' of Teth.

But as long as you do not kill anybody accidentally, the valley is quite beautiful.

While Matilda explored the surroundings...

The rest of us enjoyed some local food and drinks:

Why do all Albanian men wear suits at all times?

After our adventures in the mountains, we paid a visit to Berat, a candidate to become Unesco word heritage site:

Beautiful Berat!

 Matilda developed the new sport of "Dop Drinken" (or drinking from the cap).

Matilda showing the art of 'Dop Drinken" to Daddy and Aap.

Albania, what a country! It definitively gets our stamp of approval as a fantastic holiday destination, spectacular landscapes, culture and history, friendly people, and our German friends just might find their car back!

"Gib mir mein Mercedes zurück!"

A big Thank You to Erik and Marija for their kind hospitality!

Matilda's second birthday

One month ago, Matilda turned 2. And it didn't go unnoticed. She insisted on treating her fellow students at university to a birthday snack and invited many friends and their parents to her home to share in the birthday joy. Take a peak at Matilda's life, her 'BFFs' and play-buddies, birthday hat, presents and birthday treats:

On her actual birthday (May 11), she spent the day at the kindergarten at University, with the most typical Dutch 'birthday treat' her mother could think of: een fruitegel (a fruit hedgehog). The teacher had made a nice hat for Matilda which Matilda wore proudly

Some days later, we had a party at home and it was time to blow the candles!



The party was a happy chaos of children and parents, pancakes, cake, pizza, toys, etc. etc.

And later on, while overcoming the heat, we spent some time outside in front of the house, and Matilda made sure all of her friends had a good time: from left corner clockwise: Felix, twins Feike and Thijs, Naima, and the twins again.

Rejuvenated in Holland

Recently, Matilda and Marike did a quick tour of Holland, mainly for Matilda to see her grandparents, uncles and aunts again because she didn’t want to wait until summer. The week did not only bring a lot of ‘old’ things – people she knew, places she vaguely remembered (or did she not?), it also introduced her to a lot of ‘new’ things: a crash course of activities and happenings that made us realise how much ‘Dutch’ there is to be found in the Netherlands!

Such as...eating Dutch pancakes made by grandma B....

                                                 ...But also helping her to cook

A highlight was the visit to the ‘kinderboerderij’ (how should I translate that? A pet farm? It’s mainly for children and it has goats, pigs, chickens and rabbits to see and touch), together with uncle Michiel and auntie Vivian. Not only was Matilda exposed to Dutch wildlife and green grass...

...But also - for the first time! - to a wooden shoe!

 

Climbing the stairs with uncle Michiel was another activity although I wouldn’t call it typically Dutch (however some claim the significant steepness of stairs, particularly in Amsterdam, can be classified as very Dutch!) – I just wanted to share the pics.

We furthermore spent some time with grandpa & grandma LC, and enjoyed the beauty of Dutch spring...

Playing with sand...

 

And of course, a bike ride!

Cardozos & Cycles, for a change

We went back to Oman revived and rejuvenated.

                                               

Sunscreen!

Matilda knows: adequate sun protection is a must in Oman

Update 2: January 2011

One of the highlights of January 2011 for Matilda was the discovery of crayons...

Gideon’s sister Rachel spent a wonderful week with us. Again, we had the chance to explore the country, camping at the foot of the highest mountain – Jebel Shams – and seeing Matilda making new friends in secluded villages

Gideon, Marike and Matilda made a lovely hike, walking an old path that used to be the only route between the village of Muscat and the village of Mutrah – nowadays integrated into the large capital area and well connected by roads. It was so isolated and quiet there that you wouldn’t believe that these pictures are taken just a few hundred meters away from the bustling harbour area of Mutrah.

And finally, January 2011 was the first month in which we actually had a harvest of cherry tomatoes from our garden!

Update 1: December 2010

How long has it been since we've written on this blog! It must be because of the unfortunate paradox that the more there is to write about, the less time you take to actually do it. So here is just a quick series of updates, starting with the main events of December 2010.

Gideon's parents came for a visit, and with them we celebrated St. Nicholas.

Being by ourselves in the time between family visits, we made an exciting trip through the canyon of Wadi Bani Auf, with camping in a desolated spot, having coffee with a rather extended Omani family, and seeing one of the most beautiful places of Oman, the village of Bilad Sayt.

Then, Marike's parents came over, and we went on several outings and enjoyed each other's company...

Not much later, Matilda's uncle and auntie Michiel and Vivian joined us and we celebrated Christmas together. With them, we explored new and known parts of Oman, including a turtle beach and the desert, where we welcomed the new year.